My longtime buddy and one of my best friends, Brant, who I've known since the 10th grade has been listening to me pester him relentlessly over the years to come visit. For one reason or another it hadn't happened in 34 years, except for one brief airport layover in which he swears he got food poisoning from eating chicken fingers at the Four Peaks Brewery in Terminal 4. Karma at work?? Who knows, but his current employer recently opened a plant in Glendale. That resides about an hour from our place in Queen Creek, Glendale in the NW corner of Phoenix and the QC tucked away in the far SE corner. As luck would have it, Brant was scheduled for a week long work assignment at the new plant...in June. I asked him who he pissed off to be assigned a work trip to Phoenix in late June where temps often hover at or above the 110º mark. Haha. I told him he better be extending his trip...or else!! He agreed and the path was clear on both of our ends for a week+ to show him why I love living here. Of course that meant some mountain biking was going to happen as well.
I vowed to keep the riding fairly short, which wouldn't be an issue since it was hot, but he needed to ride among the Saguaros too. I was finally feeling recovered from my three fractured ribs back on May 15, so it would also serve as a recovery period for myself. Talk about perfect timing. As for the rides, I wanted him to experience the variety of the state: Desert, red rocks and Aspen trees. Easy.
He wrapped up his work responsibilities and I made my way to Glendale on Friday morning and met him and his work team, who already cracked open a box of Tastykakes Brant had brought me. He'll tell you it was an extra box anyway...
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| Gray beards, shades and baseball caps. Get used to it. |
Full disclaimer on the photos: They are all taken be either myself or Brant unless otherwise noted. And there are a lot taken through the windshield of my car!!
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| Red Mountain over by Hawes. |
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| Water in the desert. Salt River here, fairly empty on a Friday afternoon. |
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| On the dock at Saguaro Lake. |
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| A desert's welcome: 109º. |
We ended the first day with tacos at the
Creekside Taco Shack by our house. The next day I had planned a driving tour along the historic Apache Trail to Roosevelt Lake, then through the mining district of Globe/Miami to complete the loop.
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The Lost Dutchman Museum & Historical Society hadn't opened for the day, but it makes for a good photo.
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| Next to the big city, it gives a glimpse of what life was like over 100 years ago here. |
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| The shops hadn't opened for the day, so we just enjoyed the emptiness. |
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| Superstition Mtns. provide the backdrop. |
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| That's a big Saguaro!! |
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| The Blue Bird Mine is up the road and has some historical tidbits. |
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| Weaver's Needle poking over the ridge. |
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| Short hiking path to the Weaver's Needle overlook. |
There was what appeared to be an abandoned car in the parking lot, busted windows, flat tires, etc. Then someone moved around in the front seat trying to sleep. Hmmm.
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| One of many scenic pullouts along AZ88, the Apache Trail. |
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| Canyon Lake is surrounded by towering cliffs. |
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| After Canyon Lake is the outpost of Tortilla Flat, population: 6. |
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| Wyatt Earp 'Were washed heah'. Say that with a western twang. |
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| Gift shop, ice cream, saloon and museum make up the town. |
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| New outdoor seating area. Note: I donated about 40 license plates to the project, most of which are here. Cool. |
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| Fish Creek Hill overlook. It's the high point before making the one-lane white-knuckle descent. |
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| Down at the bottom. |
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| Car getting dusty. |
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| Apache Lake was the next stop on our drive. |
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| It's a long, narrow body of water popular for boating. |
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| We hiked down to the vista to avoid powerlines in the photo!! |
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| North end of Apache Lake, aka Salt River. Here AZ88, recently paved, follows the water closely. |
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| Roosevelt Dam. |
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| Roosevelt Bridge & Lake, the biggest of the 4 lakes along the Salt River. |
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| Cliff dwellings at Tonto Nat'l Monument. Hiking trail was closed due to heat, otherwise you can walk inside the structure. |
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| Behind the scenes... |
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| ...the result. |
We continued on our loop towards the mining towns of Globe / Miami. I had planned to stop for lunch in Miami at El Rey's, but they were closed for summer vacation. Plan B: Superior.
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| It doesn't look like much, but Jalapeños hits the spot and their horchata is on point. |
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| Back home, we finished up the day with some pizza at our local taproom: BrüCo. |
Ride #1: Brown's Ranch
I told Brant we'd definitely be doing one desert ride, so we'd be up before the sun to try and beat most of the heat. There's something special about riding among the giant Saguaro here. I never take it for granted, it's such a unique experience. Our alarms went off at 4a, typical work day for me, and we were out of the house before 5:30a for the drive to N. Scottsdale to ride at Brown's Ranch.
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| My buddy, Mike, was generous enough to loan out his Pivot full squish ride so Brant could ride in style while he was here. What a guy!! |
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| The anvil of the sun cometh. |
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| Lots of options here, over 100 miles of singletrack. |
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| Barely one mile from the trailhead we reached our first POI, Point of Interest, a Crested Saguaro. |
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| Taking in the scenery. There are at least 4 Crested Saguaros at Brown's Ranch. |
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| Typical scene here. |
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| It's not east coast dirt here, crushed granite over hardpack. It can be like riding on ball bearings when you're not used to it. |
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| Peering out from Cathedral Rock. |
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| Not sure what I'm pointing at, but I do it a lot!! Haha. |
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| Saguaro fruit nearing end-of-life. |
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| Near the highpoint of the main trail network, just over 3000'. It's notable because that means the daytime temps here are typically 7-8º cooler than downtown Phoenix. It makes a difference. |
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| Riding towards a small almost closed archway along Branding Iron trail. |
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| Another POI: Balanced Rock. |
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| A bit of chunky downhill riding from Balanced Rock. |
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| Blooming Barrel Cactus. |
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| Rolled up on this 5' Bull snake near the end of the ride. No rattlers today. Bummer. |
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| Saguaros are slow growers. |
It was a fun ride, almost 20 miles. We took a bunch of stops, therefore didn't get off the trails until after 10a, which is later than I shoot for. It was a bit over 100º at the end of our ride and thankfully the final 4+ miles were gently downhill. Brant mentioned something that I felt when I first moved out here, it's like a different planet in the Sonoran Desert compared to the east coast. For sure.
Route:
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| I was really hoping we'd have at least one hot day for Brant, Monday obliged. |
After the ride we decided to take a cruise around Tempe, the ASU campus, Papago Park and stop for a good beer.
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| Hole-in-the-Rock wasn't too busy on this hot afternoon. It's usually crawling with people in the cooler months. |
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| Hunt's Tomb perched over the Phoenix Zoo. |
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| 'A' Mountain next to Sun Devil Stadium. It'll always be that to me no matter who's sponsoring the stadium. |
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| Their flagship offering: Church Music Juicy IPA |
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| It has its own van too!! |
I had to work my airport shift on Monday morning, which wiped me out and I took a nap afterwards!! We made our way over to the
Queen Creek Olive Mill for a late lunch, but no pics.
The following day we were back at it. I had made reservations for Kartchner Caverns in southern AZ. We'd be passing through Tucson in the morning so we had to make a breakfast stop at
Bobo's.
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| Cell phones are not allowed inside the caverns, so this is all you get. Courtesy of the Kartchner Caverns State Park website. |
For the drive home, I opted to take a more scenic route. We headed south a bit, then west to Sonoita and down through Patagonia. We eventually reached the border town of Nogales where we'd take I-19 back north through Tucson.
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| Rail line coming into the USA. |
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| I-19 still shows distance in kilometers not miles. It began back in 1980 when the interstate was constructed and has stuck. |
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| Downtown Tucson and Mt. Lemmon. |
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| It's been a go-to stop in Tucson for over a decade now. Seis Kitchen, just off I-10 near downtown. |
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| Shrimp & fish taco, plus horchata. Mmmmm. |
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| It's misting season in AZ. |
Back home I wanted to take Brant up to South Mountain for the expansive night view. It's really the only place in the valley you can see the full city at night. What I failed to realize was the gate closes at 7p and we arrived around 7:30. I guess in year's past, I've driven up in the cooler weather when the days are shorter. We still got a semi-descent view from the 19th Ave. trailhead, but not the same.
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| Not nearly as impressive from here. |
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| Instead of city lights, we broke out the black light back at the house and found one scorpion hanging out by the hose bib. |
Wednesday arrived and we pointed the car north for some prime tourist activity...and some more riding. We'd be spending a couple of nights in Flagstaff at Mike's house. He was returning from a Cali band camp on Wednesday, so the timing worked out perfectly. We had been trying to find time to make some margaritas at home, but just couldn't fit it in. So, we packed up all the fixin's for Mike's.
Sedona was our first stop. I had planned a short loop here, but first I dropped K off at Tlaquepaque to relax while we rode.
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| Tlaquepaque is a great place to hang out & window shop. |
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| I had a message from K, she was having a beverage at Oak Creek Brewery. Be right there!! |
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| That's a big cat!! |
We did some shopping downtown so Brant could pick up a few things, then headed north through Oak Creek Canyon. The slow, scenic drive to Flagstaff. Traffic wasn't too bad, minus the two vehicles driving 10-15 mph under the speed limit for a while. Why do these drivers refuse to pull over? If you want to gawk, then gawk after you let everyone get by.
We arrived in Flagstaff and met up with Mike at his place. While unpacking we realized we forgot a very important ingredient for the margaritas. Limes. We had purchased a bag of them just for this, then left them at home. Insert face palm here. We were going to make deluxe nachos at Mike's anyway and needed a quick trip to the store. But first, I think we have time for a ride in Flagstaff before we run out of daylight.
Ride #3: Flagstaff - Schultz Creek
Mike and I bounced a few ideas around, not thinking we had enough time for a larger shuttle ride. Instead we opted to shuttle the famed Schultz Creek trail. It's a longtime classic of the area and rides really well. Plus, the shuttle is easy to set up. Let's go!!
We arrived at the 'Y', the bottom staging area and began driving up the road...what the?? Road was closed. Drat. Hmmm, now what? We couldn't really come up with a good alternative, so we opted to pedal up the road. I think Brant thought we'd just bail on the ride. Ha!! There were a couple of connector trails we could bail on if need be.
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| Mike cruising up the well maintained road. |
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| Brant wondering what he's gotten in to. If he thought the 4500' of Sedona was low on oxygen, we started this ride at 7200'...and climbing. |
We made it up to the split, second from the top, which was fine. It was right about sunset and we needed to keep moving. We topped out just shy of 8000' and in spite of the heavy breathing, Brant did fine.
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| The payoff: Hero dirt after and earlier storm. |
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| Real dirt to ride on here. |
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| Whooosh!! Photo by Mike. |
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| Light is fading. |
As the miles ticked by, the light was waning. I heard Brant smack a rock with his pedal behind me, but thankfully he didn't wreck!! Good thing the rocks here are light colored, easier to see as darkness settled in. We weren't far now. It was a bit after 8p when we reached the trailhead. I told Brant, if I had lights, I would've turned them on about 1 1/2 miles ago!! Haha. He said he was giving our shuttle service a 1 Star rating, only because zero wasn't an option!! Ouch. We'll see if we can improve on that for the next ride...
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| Yeah, it was about that dark when we finished. Adventure complete. |
Route:
A quick jaunt to the grocery store...don't forget the freaking limes!! Then back to Mike's for oven baked nachos and margaritas. Great way to end the day.
The next morning we set our sights on the Grand Canyon.
We stopped at a roadside convenience store in the small outpost of Valle for a short break. We didn't expect to see a classic car collection out front. I'm not much of a car person, but can appreciate a fine looking automobile. Check these out:
The line at the entrance station of the South Rim wasn't too bad, only a handful of vehicles in front of us. Glad we have an annual park pass, as it's now easily paid for itself.
Parking at the main visitor center area wasn't too bad either, we were only a short walk away from Mather Pt.
The above photo will now have to be a time capsule photo. This was taken on July 3. No one could have foreseen that the following day a nearby lightning strike would begin the
. Barely 10 days later, the North Rim Lodge and some 50+ historic cabins, housing and maintenance buildings would be gone. Burned to the ground. The fire has since burned down a portion of the N. Kaibab trail. The area has received some rainfall the past couple of days. Hopefully, things get fully under control soon. Heartbreaking.
We inquired about access to the S. Kaibab trail since things have changed at the park in recent years. I've been here a bunch of times, but usually via bike which makes getting around rather easy. Being in full tourist mode this go-round, we had to take advantage of the free park shuttle. It's quite convenient, running every 12 minutes or so. I wanted Brant to see the S. Kaibab trailhead, where the AZT goes down a dizzying array of switchbacks.
The rain had started as we made our way out of the park. The temps dropped as low as 56º, more than half from the 116º we saw a few days earlier.