Tour Divide '19: Day 20 - Hartsel to Salida

The impromptu rain event from the wee hours in the morning weren't my only issue that night. I discovered a slow leak in my sleeping pad sometime around 3:30a. It wasn't the most restful night of the Divide.

I heard a couple of vehicles cruise by on the road as the morning began to light up. Time to move. I poked my head out of the tent to find a serene setting.

Another bonus for the Big Agnes tent, this was my hastily setup version, no stakes, only the pole & 3 clips for the rainfly.

The campsite was located off CR53 at an elevation of 9200' and I only had about 40 miles or so to reach Salida. My plan was to get into town late morning, get my knee looked at and move on, hopefully up & over Marshal Pass.

The area around my right knee was noticeably more irritated, the small puss head from the day before had almost tripled in size. I knew I needed to get it looked at in town as it clearly looked to be infected. I debated about trying to pop it, but opted to leave it alone. On the bike  I was feeling good almost instantly and was able to sit and pedal for good chunks of time. Well, at least until the road became covered in washboard.

That was about an hour or two into the day and it was difficult to find good riding lines and stay seated. In spite of the deteriorated road surface, the miles were ticking off and I was getting near the base of the small pass leading into Salida. My cue sheet listed it as a 6.7 mile climb with 1,040' of gain.

Another beautiful morning to start the day.

The first 8 miles were gently uphill, but that's where the washboard crept in.

A lone shack in the high plains.

The cows seemed fairly content.

The final stretch of climbing before a long mellow descent.

This started a gradual 8 mile descent to the base of the final pass to Salida.

I had made good progress to the final climb into town, but as soon as the road turned and the pitch increased I could tell my energy levels were dropping. Snack time. While I took a break another racer caught up and passed by. My backside was beginning to bother me once again and I began to crave the comforts that a town can offer, namely a cold chocolate milk.

I pushed off and rode about 3 miles of the climb. It wasn't steep, just slightly uphill cruising but my saddle had now become excruciatingly uncomfortable, only standing pedaling for a while. Then the grade kicked up, I felt that bonk feeling coming on and I hopped off the bike to begin another string of hike-a-bike miles.

While I pushed two more racers passed by, pedaling with ease while I struggled with each footstep. I was in bad shape.

I was unable to pedal the slightest grade at this moment.

A perfect storm was brewing, saddle sores were killing me, knee was becoming stiff and painful to pedal, I was bonking and could barely keep my eyes open. The restless night of sleep had caught up to me. I found a nice shade tree near a ranch and decided I needed some shuteye. I set the alarm on my phone for 20 minutes and tried to relax with my eyes closed.

It mostly worked. I downed more calories and began to feel the bonking sensation ease its grip. I also noticed the puss head on my knee had opened. I squeezed out a bunch of gunk and initially it felt better after some pressure was released, but it looked nasty. I was able to pedal for a bit, but my energy just wasn't there. I ended up walking the final bit to the pass taking an hour and a half to cover two miles barely being able to lift my feet. I was wrecked. So demoralizing, especially after racer #4 passed by me. I couldn't wait to get into town for a real meal.

First close glimpse of the Sawatch Range.

It was now 1:30p as I crested the pass. I had heard it was a long fun downhill into Salida, but my mood was tempered a bit when a second short climb appeared after the pass. Dang it. As the minutes crawled by I began contemplating a half day and spend the night in Salida. I was exhausted, tired, broken and in desperate need of a re-charge.

The imposing Sawatch Range towers over the Arkansas Valley.

A few of the prominent peaks with 14ers: Mount Shavano, Antero & Princeton.

Mercifully, the downhill commenced, but I was so sleepy I could barely enjoy it. I kept thinking to myself: 'Get to the bottom'. Somewhere around 2-3 miles from town the road punched through a notable heat island. The temperature seemed to instantly rise some 10-15 degrees and I was thinking how hot it felt.

7,036' and 88º How was I going to make it through New Mexico if I thought THIS was hot?? So much for my desert training and heat acclimation. That was long gone.

I peeled off-route here in search of chocolate milk and real food.

Tenderfoot Hill with the signature 'S'.

I rolled up to Conoco gas station and made a beeline to the dairy cooler. Large chocolate milk in hand I waited patiently in line only to be informed by the cashier that the dairy cooler was malfunctioning. WHAT!?! The clerk pointed to the top of the milk bottle and there was clear separation in the milk. A sign at the cooler would've been nice. I was so dejected. I asked where the next closest convenience store/gas station was located: 'Across town at US50'. Ugh. I walked out empty handed. In the parking lot the couple who was in front of me in line asked about my ride. Not sure what I told them, but I recall mentioning that I had been craving a cold chocolate milk for hours. The guy just said, 'Damn, that sucks'. I concur.

Plan B of sorts was to ride over to Oveja Negra downtown where they stitch a fine array of bikepacking bags. My buddy, Aaron, works there, but he was out on a multi-week excursion on the Wild West Route recently unveiled by Bikepacking Roots. I figured I could get some solid food recommendations from the crew, grab a shower and possibly get my shorts sewn. The owner, Lane, was happy to oblige with the shorts repair while I got cleaned up.

I felt bad about bringing my bike inside since I don't have any Oveja Negra bags!! D'oh!! Plenty to choose from here!!

The crew hard at work making bikepackers all over the globe happy.

Sweetie's Sandwich Shop was the recommended consensus in the shop. It was only a couple blocks away which was perfect since my walking had now become labored. I had been craving a tuna salad sandwich and Sweetie's delivered, they also had chocolate milk!! Double score. In addition, they had a huge array of dessert items and I am always game for a huge brownie.

After lunch I needed to track down a pharmacy. Safeway was only a couple more blocks away so I hobbled my way over. The pharmacist informed me that Salida doesn't have an Urgent Care or Minute Clinic, only the Regional Hospital. She suggested I contact my Doctor to see if they would send over anitbiotics for my knee. I was able to get in touch with my Doctor and it seemed like it was going to work out since the pharmacy was open until 8p. I picked up some more saddle sore care items, re-stocked my batteries and made my way back to Oveja Negra.

I wanted to get a place to stay close to the route. I had debated about staying at the Salida Hostel, but I really wanted a room to myself and didn't feel all that sociable at the moment. I continued on route through town so I wouldn't have to backtrack the next day. I was able to find a place to stay on US50 that was only a quarter mile off-route.

Back on route, not a bad option if I needed to camp.

Retaining wall mural. Nice.

While riding this section, two ladies were walking their dog when one asked if I was doing the Divide. She admitted to being a blue dot stalker and had to explain what that meant to her friend. It was pretty funny. They wished me luck as I pressed on. Little did I know at the time, but this would be my last photo from the route.

Colorado pride!!

I checked in to the motel and barely got settled in when my Doctor called back saying they couldn't send over a prescription for antibiotics. That was a bit deflating. I'm not completely sure why I didn't go to the ER right then, I think I was just worn down from the day and wanted to sit still.  Over the next couple of hours I began to feel worse, chills, body aches, that dreaded feeling you get when you know you're about to get sick. Thankfully, that sensation passed after an hour or so. Maybe it was the mind numbing TV. Who knows.

I posted an update on social media and almost instantly the well wishes came pouring in. It was quite overwhelming actually. I needed a good nights rest and hoped I could get back on the bike the next day.

Stats: 42.34 miles & 2,000' gained

Route:

Full photo album for Day 20:

EDIT: The ride continues!! I picked up the route in Salida and rode to Del Norte over two days in June 2021. Here's that ride report: Salida to Del Norte

Here is a full Tour Divide Index from each day on the route.