ColoRADo: Coming in HOT

 Here we are, second weekend in August, 2020 in the Valley of the Sun. We should be firmly entrenched in our annual monsoon flow of moisture. For us desert rats, that means slightly lower daily high temps, but an increase in humidity with the 'promise' of a potential afternoon thunderstorm. This year? Need I remind you it's 2020. The monsoon has been a dud, a non-soon. I want my money back.

So, to find some relief from the seemingly endless string of 110º days, I had arranged a weekend over in the mountains of SoCal with my buddy, Evan. Everything was a GO until Evan pointed out a growing wildfire in the area. We watched it's progress for a day or two, wasn't looking good and the thought of sucking in smoke was rather unappealing.

I had been seeing a bunch of social media pics from my friends, Scott & Eszter, around the Silverton, CO area lately so I decided to see what the 10-day forecast looked like...

Well, that about sealed the deal. I'd be arriving late on Thursday and leaving on Sunday.

Scott & Eszter have been living the Scamp Life for years, but I found out they recently upgraded to the Geo Pro life...sweet!! We worked out the details of the camp site and I left the ride planning to Scott. Some may think I was rolling the dice there, but for those unaware, I've often modeled my own routes off of Scott's way of thinking. This was going to be good. Real good.

I was able to hit the road before noon on Thursday for the long drive north. I made good time nearing the Colorado line a little before sunset. Eszter has been known to recall all the great eateries around the mountain west, so I picked her brain for a place to grab a quick bite in Durango. Zia Taqueria for burritos was the spot. If I could get there before closing, that'll be 3 burritos to go. One for each of us on the next day's ride. (I already picked up two burritos from Alfonso's in Payson!!)

I was about 30 minutes out of Durango, so I plugged in directions for the burrito feast, it was 7:45p. Google maps stated I would arrive after closing!! Noooo!! I was so dejected, now what? I arrived in town bypassing fast food offering after another. I saw Zia up ahead, might as well check anyway...it's OPEN!! Oh, hell yeah. Google maps didn't get the memo, they close at 9p, not 8p. I made it with time to spare. Burritos in hand, I made the final miles up to camp near Molas Pass. We'd be camping at 10,400'. I knew the high elevation sleeping would do me good the next few days.

I said my hellos, set up camp and we were all off to sleep. Big day tomorrow.

It was 38º when I woke the next morning. It felt fantastic!! We had a leisurely morning, drove up the road to Cascade Creek where we'd be doing a good sized loop. It's a route I've done before, but I was dumb and wondered why Scott sent me down the road when there seemed to be good trail right across the road? That day I pushed my bike 100% up the Graysill trail. So, today, I'd trust Scott and we'd begin with a short road spin down to Purgatory Ski resort. Then the climbing began.

A short bit of pavement down to our turn.

The smooth stuff was very short lived, but that mountain ahead of us? We'd be seeing Engineer Mtn. all day and from all sides. Our route would take us around it.

Lower Relay Creek Rd. gets things started.

'Let no one say. And say it to your shame. That all was beauty here. Until you came.' 

Our first big view in a while, time for a burrito break. Rolling Mtn. Pass is the high point of the Colorado Trail (CT) between here and camp near Molas Pass. (PeakFinder app.)

After the initial pitch, the road contoured quite nicely for a while. Now on the Cascade Divide Rd.

Engineer Mtn. peek-a-boo.

Eszter has been exploring a lot on foot lately, this was her first ride in a couple of weeks. Could've fooled me!!

Umm, that could be a rather large bear. Photo by Eszter.

These rock cairns mark the crossing of Graysill trail and a poor decision on my part the last time I rode this loop!! Haha. I'm sure it's a decent downhill trail.

Daisy alley. Photo by Scott.

A cloud has been spotted!!

Nearing the end of the long dirt road climb and our junction with the Colorado Trail.

One of the final road switchbacks. Photo by Scott.

A very clear, white creek along the CT. High mineral content, but tasted great.

So refreshing!! Photo by Eszter.

Let's go ride into another postcard. Photo by Eszter.

It was so nice to ride the CT under sunny, dry conditions. The rain demons of the 2017 CTR were being cast aside.

Sideslope singletrack!!

Glowing patches of Skunk Cabbage were everywhere. Thankfully, it doesn't smell like its namesake.

Scott rippin' through the cabbage.

Waterfall incoming!!

This spot has become known as the Bob Ross painting. 'We'll just add a puffy white cloud here...'

No puffy white clouds, but a bike will do.

Cascade Creek does its thing.

Scott making nice work over a tricky creek crossing. Photo by Eszter.

Upon further inspection, a series of waterfalls were located.

And a rusty shovel spade. I wonder how long that's been there?

Hi Eszter!!

Look at that!! Buffed out CT singletrack. This was near our camp location a few years back when we used the Durango-Silverton railroad as our shuttle.

So thankful the Skunk Cabbage didn't have an odor!! This could've been bad. Photo by Eszter.

The trail conditions were sublime.

Thank you CT, all is forgiven.

One last look back along the CT, we were now at the White Creek split.

Taking a moment to smell the roses. Photo by Scott.

Somehow, the trail avoids this mishmash of rocks.

Photobombed by the Motobecane.

It's not all easy riding up here. Scott caught me in a familiar position and was all happy about it!!

Hike-a-bike ROI - worth it!! Photo by Eszter.

See that far zigzag? That's the Cascade Divide Rd. we came up earlier.

Another cool spot, notice the white streak left of center? That's a dry creek, the mineral deposits are visible.

White Creek starts off with a couple of short hike-a-bike efforts, then this.

Engineer Mtn. starting to feel close, it also begins to dominate the view.

Shut up. Look at that!!

A little slice of Sedona tossed in for good measure.

I can't say enough, how good it was to share the trails this weekend with these two.

Boom!!

White Creek is a fantastic alternate to going over Rolling Mtn. Pass linking into Engineer Mtn. Trail.

Isn't it amazing our bikes lead us to places like this? Photo by Eszter.

New signage at a sometimes confusing intersection.

It wasn't all fun & games, time to push for a bit.

That dirt looks like it would be right at home in Sedona, AZ. Photo by Eszter.

Not far removed from the above pic, but a different feel here. Photo by Scott.

Engineer Mtn. finally starting to feel nearby. Photo by Eszter.

This area often rewards you for the effort.

Climb that alpine ribbon of dirt.

Sense of scale is staggering.

One heck of a panoramic view.

No 14ers, but plenty of 13ers!!

One final grind before the long descent down Engineer Mtn. Trail.

Cresting the saddle peering down the valley towards Durango.

US550 snaking its way up Coal Bank Pass. Our vehicles are way down there!!

It's a long, steady downhill burn. I had to stop a couple of times to give my arms a rest.

Near the bottom the trail winds in & out of large open sideslopes.

The open hillsides are often linked via aspen groves.

And then you're done!! A short downhill spin along the tarmac back to the staging area.

Route:

It was a fantastic reintroduction to the Colorado high country. I was worked, but smiling ear-to-ear. Back at camp in daylight was a nice twist too. Talk began about what to ride the next day. A few routes were tossed about, then Scott mentioned a 3 pass dirt road route. I didn't mind the 'no singletrack' disclaimer, I've seen enough alpine views around here to know the dirt roads lead to some amazing vistas. Eszter seemed a bit skeptical, which then gave me pause. Some map tabulation spit out the deets: 23 miles and 8,000'+ of gain. Gulp. Hmmm, perhaps that's one best left to explore on foot first, was Eszter's recommendation. How about an adventure route then? Scott had found a few dashed lines on the map that would cut out one pass. I then found out that Eszter had never been to Telluride and that blew my mind. This would be a cool way to get there for the first time, but I think we were all a bit hesitant on the unknown map squiggles. Finally, a more traditional singletrack route emerged, ride from camp, check out a section of the Colorado Trail by Molas Lake that the CTR doesn't use, but perhaps should, then drop over the mountain via the Rico-Silverton trail to Mineral Rd. We could then ride the Rainbow trail into Silverton where we'd drop the van to skip the US550 climb back to camp. Done. Let's do it.

The map sleuthing at camp was intense!! (Insert circus fire joke here) I could almost hear the hike-a-bike miles racking up.

Not a bad view from camp.

We stayed up long enough for the stars to come out against a black sky and thankfully, our new neighbor killed his generator after hours of humming.

More blue sky greeted us the next morning. Once again, chilly in the morning shadows as we methodically worked our way through the pre-ride routine. We were rolling up US550 shortly after 8a getting set to put tires on a two mile piece of Colorado Trail that the CTR bypasses.

We hopped off the pavement at Molas Lake. A short dirt road led us to a social trail.

Looking towards the Weminuche Wilderness.

No sooner had we linked onto the CT, there was this 'trail magic' easy-up!! No, we didn't stop!!

The trail was surprisingly good. Not sure what I expected here.

The CT was showing its kinder, gentler side under the warm glow of sunlight.

How has this slice of CT slipped under the radar?? Photo by Eszter.

Beautiful sections of singletrack were tucked in here.

Hard to believe we had yet to reach Molas Pass.

Don't worry, there was plenty of climbing and heavy breathing on my part, but it was almost all rideable. It would make a nice addition to the CTR and cut out a couple miles of pavement if it were added to the route.

This was the CT I recognized after crossing US550 below Molas Pass.

Little Molas Lake is just as stunning as its bigger counterpart.

We made a steady push up the main climb and I was feeling decent as we were now well above 11,000'. Photo by Eszter.

Another stellar day was unfolding in the mountains. Photo by Scott.

Near the top of the climb, I needed a break. Looks like Scott is rearing to go!! Photo by Eszter.

Eszter getting set for the shot...

...nailed it!! Photo by Eszter.

A different perspective of Engineer Mtn.

I was doing okay with the elevated riding. My legs were feeling good, lungs were breathing heavy, but I was able to settle into a decent groove and not have to stop. I was almost keeping pace with Scott & Eszter over 11k. The picture pace provided me with the right amount of breaks.

The steady 2 mile climb led to some fine contoured riding.

We were cruising along, bombing down large fields of Skunk Cabbage and a few punchy ups. One in particular we walked up, then Scott cleaned the second one. I didn't realize how big the step-up was in the blinding light until the last second. I gave it a heave, but came up short. I must've grabbed my brake levers when the front wheel touched down but...ruh-roh. The front brake lever instantly went to the grip and fluid poured onto the trail. Front brakes: dead. Gonzo. The brake line must've been distressed before this ride and I didn't notice, it just happened to pick this location to fail.

Wrestling with my brake lever, trying to get the pin to release!! Photo by Eszter.

I futzed around a bit getting the lever off the bike. We decided that they would continue on, but cut over a trail earlier than planned. I'd turn around and take my time on the downhills. We'd meet up in Silverton for lunch since that's where the van was. I was given a two hour window.

Off they go!! My turnaround point. Bummed I was going to miss out on a couple new-to-me trails. :(

Not too bummed, as I get to ride back through here!! :)

This really is a fine specimen of trail.

Moar Skunk Cabbage!!!

Twilight Peak dead ahead, but not where I'm headed.

Looking back across the valley.

Engineer Mtn. & friends.

I was sure to check my speed on the two mile descent, only one slight 'oh shit' moment coming in hot on this turn. My balding rear tire wasn't helping matters. Time for a replacement when I get home.

Cool looking rift the CT cuts across.

I made the short detour up to Molas Pass to snag the lake overview shot.

One of two mountain passes between Silverton & Durango, the other being Coal Bank Pass.

Some dried mud carnage from an ill fated puddle crossing the day before. Sunk in the goop.

Silverton, CO. That's one helluva backdrop.

To my surprise, as I arrived at the visitor center, Scott & Eszter were already here!! I thought I'd be a few minutes early, but they bested me by 10 minutes!! While they changed, I made my way over to the one bike shop in town to see if I could get a replacement for the brake line. It didn't take long to get my answer: shop CLOSED for family vacation all week. Hmmm, I guess we'll come up with a Plan B or C over some Avalanche Brewing Co. pizza.

The main drag in town, lots of outdoor seating this time of year in the current state of affairs.

We hung out here while we waited for our pizza. Iron Horse Park. The Iron Horse race is an annual event which challenges riders to beat the train from Durango to Silverton. Two mountain passes on US550 over 50 miles in less than 3 1/2 hours or so.

Some regional history.

Lots of rail-trail miles.

Nice to see those abandoned rail lines getting put to good use. For more info check out: Rails-to-trails Conservancy.

Love the texture of the brick mortar.

During lunch Scott offered up the front brakes on their commuter bike, we'd could swap them out and hopefully get in another good ride. We had toyed with the idea of heading back to Molas Pass to finish the ride we started, but back at camp a healthy dose of food coma set in and all three of us seemed to doze on/off for a while. Ha!

The brakes did eventually get swapped over and they worked...enough. Meanwhile, the idea of going for a float on Molas Lake was proposed. It was almost feeding time for the local Ospreys & a possible Bald Eagle sighting, let's go!!

Cheers!!

A very relaxing finish to the day.

Water was clear enough to see the bottom over most of the lake.

Nice to get a different point of view.

Sometimes you stumble into a real life postcard.

We spotted an Osprey perched in a tree, but he didn't seem ready to begin fishing. We floated around for a while longer, but no activity. Scott and I made our way to shore while Eszter waited patiently. The shoreline had a bunch of empty fishing lines, so we found a space between a couple to exit the lake. Unfortunately for me, I found the one section of deep, thick, sludge mud. I didn't mind getting a little muddy, but when I sunk up to my calf I could feel my flip-flop getting sucked off my foot!! Scott saved the packraft from floating away while I sunk my other foot into the muck. Rats. I had to reach down and pluck my flip-flop free, what a mess!! At least there was a water hose nearby, but while I was cleaning off, I missed all the action on the lake. Gah!!

Eszter's patience paid off in spades. Her shots are simply amazing. Not only catching the Osprey, but the now visiting Bald Eagle who was dog-fighting with the Osprey. (I did see that!) What I missed, was the Osprey nabbing a fish, only to have the Bald Eagle force a mid-air drop and snag it in flight!! Fish thief!! After the Bald Eagle had it's snack, it sat perched on a tall pine across from the lake, observing. Two more Osprey arrived and the three took turns trying to snare more fish. The first four attempts came up empty, but the fifth was successful. We watched to see if the eagle would make another move, it didn't. What a show!! #Neature.

This guy was on a mission. Photo by Eszter.

Look at those talons!! Sure makes nabbing a falling fish easier. Photo by Eszter.

He looked a little ragged, but what a magnificent creature. Photo by Eszter.

The hours spent at Molas Lake were so relaxing, I didn't mind not going for another ride. It's great to mix things up. Plus, we still had leftover pizza from earlier to finish. Score.

Hard to believe, but it was already my last night in the mountains. My right leg had started to bother me earlier in the day. I think it was due to my very slow leaking mattress pad. By 3a the previous morning I had been lying on my side and there may have been a rock pressing against my upper outer quad. Either way, it was feeling tight while walking, but not riding.

The next morning it was still stiff, but that wasn't going to alter our ride plans. I packed everything up and we were on our way up the road shortly after 8a. Our plan was a short, 2 hour spin making a loop using the Pass Creek trail. I had seen this trail a couple of times when coming down Engineer Mtn. trail and wondered how it rode. I was about to find out.

A few groups of hikers had beat us to the dirt, start climbing.

Good spot for a break. This trail was good, but sure had the blood pumping!!

Nearing treeline, a jaw dropping scene. That Bob Ross guy gets around. Amazeballs. Yet another side of Engineer Mtn.

Back on the Engineer Mtn. trail, we continue to climb for a bit.

No matter the time of day, Engineer Mtn. always seems to have good light.

Mr. Topofusion practically posing for the glam shot.

That trail looks too pristine, has to be fake. Photo by Scott.

We stopped for a break, more so I could catch my breath, and then it happened....hail?? Scott said. Then, almost in unison, all three of us said: snow!! August 9, 2020 and it was snowing, albeit only flurries and it lasted about 15 seconds, but who's counting. I swear, both Scott and Eszter looked at me and shook their heads, the weather magnet strikes again!! I don't know how or when the weather stigma occurred, but I can't really argue it. It's kinda funny. Anyway, it stopped and the rest of the ride was great!!

Almost looks like a flat piece of trail.

A bit more climbing ensued, missing 12k by mere feet.

Scott nears the high point.

What an impressive sight no matter how many times you see it. Photo by Eszter.

There has to be ONE fist pump shot, no? Photo by Scott.

The trail meanders down through the high alpine meadows.

Eszter rippin'.

The trail was steep enough to require the use of my life support front brakes, but guess what? The extended use heated up the system and they felt fine!! It was nice being back in control of my speed.

Have I mentioned how much I love riding with the EVOC hip pack? Nice to have air flowing across my back instead of a sweat river. Photo by Eszter.

A little farther down, Scott leads it out. Photo by Eszter.

Treeline arrives quickly.

Really nice trail winding down through the trees. Photo by Scott.

Rail that corner!!

It was a nice payoff for all the earlier climbing.

US550 comes into view for the last bit.

We wrapped up the ride an entire minute ahead of schedule!! That's right, a predicted 2 hour ride lasted 1:59 even at picture pace.

We swapped out the front brakes again and I readied myself for the long drive home. I noted that it was 55º at the finish of our ride knowing it would be doubled that upon my arrival home. Wasn't exactly looking forward to the desert re-entry, but it sure was a nice getaway. I bid my farewells to Scott & Eszter and hit the road.

I grabbed lunch down in Durango while I pondered where to ride in northern New Mexico sans front brakes. I ended up deciding on a trail system I had ridden a few years ago, Alien Run near Aztec. I knew it was mostly level and flowed well, plus it was only a couple miles off the route home.

I plugged the trailhead into Google maps and was on my way. Once off US550, I thought the dirt road was more rubbly than last time. Then, a second dirt road had a massive rut down the middle. Something didn't seem quite right. It wasn't until I saw the trailhead that I realized Google had brought me in from the north side. *NOTE: Enter from the south via Hart Canyon Rd., it's a well graded gravel road suitable for all vehicles.

You can barely notice the graphic on the sign it blends in so well.

Looks and feels like Phil's World near Cortez, CO. At least a lite version.

There's even some slickrock to play on.

White dots and everything. Mini Moab!!

Don't stray too far, there is penalty for failure.

I passed on this area, front brakes would be helpful here.

Tough to get lost when green & blue UFO's guide the way.

Hang a left here for a short 5 mile spin. BTW, these trails are directional, one-way trails. Nice not having to worry about oncoming riders.

The graphics are spot on too.

Hole-in-the-rock.

Quick shade break in the 90º heat. Neat rock features here.

Bicycle dream catcher.

The San Juan Mtns. still visible.

The Outer Limits trail adds another 6.4 miles to the main loop, short on time again to ride it.

There was only one short downhill I had to walk, but otherwise it's a gradual downhill rip back to the parking lot.

Lots of buffed out swoopy trail.

New Mexico oil country.

The only exposed section, thank you clouds. 

Back at the start. Enter on the right, exit on the left.

No trees at the parking area, but a nice shade ramada, picnic tables, bbq grill, mtb workstation, hitching post and restrooms.

These trails are alien approved. Fun stuff.

Route:

It was a much needed escape from the 2020 Non-soon season here in the desert. So glad it worked out to share the trails with Scott & Eszter, you never know where we'll meet up next. Until next time, ride on.