AZT 42/43: White Spar Burn Scar

 It had been 5 years since I last rode on the North Rim. That ride was a bit eventful, as we were pulled off the Kaibab Plateau by law enforcement evacuating people due to the Mangum Fire. This time the fires had been put out, but the devastation was real. I wanted to see first hand what the Arizona Trail, AZT, looked like. The first ride I planned to do was to ride north on the AZT from the Orderville TH, where the AZT crossed US89A, to Stateline CG on the Utah border and back. This would cross through the White Sage burn scar, a fire that consumed almost 59,000 acres. It would also pass through the Mangum scar of 2020.

It was a cool morning, but pleasant. I packed my puffy in my backpack and lights as this was going to be a big day, one I haven't done in a while.

Perfect, quiet camp location for a couple of nights.

Orderville trailhead kiosk.

I'd be riding the other direction from all these places.

The Kaibab Squirrel is prevalent on most signage up here.

New signs warning of the burn scar dangers.

After crossing US89A, Passage 42 begins, heading north.

The short, early climbs were really affecting me. Definitely not acclimated to 7500'!!

The first few miles were classic Kaibab Plateau riding. Simply beautiful.

The definition of singletrack.

Only a few down trees in the early miles.

Forest flow.

Somewhere around 4 miles in, I reached the burn area.

It was a bit shocking to see, charred trees, empty ground.

Melted carsonite sign.

New carsonites have been added and small bits of grass were poking up. Signs of recovery.

I soon transitioned into the Mangum Fire burn scar where the ground cover was notably more robust. Even some flowers blooming. I also passed a couple of thru hikers here heading south, the only people I'd see on trail all day.

Recovery is a long slow process.

The carpet of green was nice to see, helps with erosion control.

As the burned miles added up, I was thankful I had been through here in better times.

Now on a re-routed section of AZT due to the Mangum Fire, a new sign.

Looking down on the sinkhole.

Peering off the west side of the Kaibab Plateau with distant views towards Zion Nat'l Park. PeakFinder app.

The trail tread through the burn area was fine, no signs of erosion or down trees.

The trail hugs the hillside as it begins to descend to the valley below.

I rounded the corner and was right back in the thick of things.

Nearing the end of the re-routed section by Gov't Reservoir.

This marked the end of the tall Ponderosa Pines and into the high desert scrub, Pinon & Juniper trees.

This section was nothing but death mud for me during the 2016 AZTR750. Brutal.

Back into the burn, but only for a few hundred feet.

This is the Kaibab I remember.

And this.

I was making decent time as I crossed Winter Rd. to begin Passage 43, Buckskin Mtn.

It's only a bit over 10 miles from here to Stateline CG, but it's sneaky. There are a handful of steep down and ups to navigate. Many of which I knew I'd be walking. I'd be returning to this point by making a loop using House Rock Valley Rd. to Winter Rd. with the majority of the climbing on Winter Rd.

The final passage, where the dirt slowly turns an orange hue.

Looking east along Winter Rd. with Navajo Mtn. in the distance.

The final big AZT sign along the journey north from Mexico.

Taking a much needed snack break on one of the climbs.

Vermilion Cliffs come into view.

Up again.

Fun, swoopy section before the final descent.

Utah comes into view, along with it another burn scar from 2020.

Nearing the dropoff from the Kaibab Plateau.

Stateline CG is down there, near center. You can see House Rock Valley Rd. below the cliffs.

The final 20+ switchbacks are more like big rounded bends in the trail.

Looking back at what I just rode down.

The final flat before the end of the AZT.

There it is. The new-ish finish obelisk.

Thanks, Dale.

Really cool that this has been installed at the finish.

This one's cool too.

All alone.

I went over to one of the empty campsites, there are 6 total, 2 were occupied, to have a snack and muster the energy for the return ride which included over 3000' of climbing. I was a bit surprised how worked over I felt, wishing my car was here. A BLM Ranger had pulled into the camp area to check on things and was chatting with one of the guests. I decided if he were to drive past me on House Rock Valley Rd. I wasn't going to hesitate to ask if he was going to Jacob Lake and could I get a ride. The wind had also kicked up and was not in my favor.

I got over my mini pity party and made my way out of Stateline. It was around 1:30p when I got going on House Rock Valley Rd.

After a very brief stint in Utah, I was back in Arizona.

Geology rainbow.

Not pictured: 20+ mph headwinds and no place to hide. Oof.

Finally made it to the Winter Rd. turnoff and some semblance of relief from the wind.

The spectacular Vermilion Cliffs.

I never did see the ranger, perhaps we was based out of Utah and wasn't coming this way. Oh well, I'll get to the end one way or another.

I made up for the lack of headwind with steep climbing. Lots of walking on Winter Rd. Like 90% of it.

Finally!! Back on the AZT. It took about 2 1/2 hours for me to go 8 1/2 miles and gain 1500'.

I was so relieved to be pedaling again.

Juniper berries!!

Back into the burn zone. There were 3 of these here, all 3 were barely 0.1 mile long.

Approaching another short burn area.

Bear box at the Navajo Trail junction.

My original route had me taking the Navajo Trail west for about 2 miles, but included a steep hike-a-bike section. I had received word a couple months ago that the Navajo Trail was virtually non-existent over this stretch. I was already nearing my limit, time was dragging and daylight waning. I opted to slightly shorten my route by taking the closed FS247 south. It would trim a few miles, lead directly to where my car was and have a few hundred less feet of climbing. Sold.

I wasn't on the Navajo Trail long, but this sign is the highlight of the trail. Glad it's still standing.

FS247 started out as a rough 2-track.

Gov't Reservoir with a good amount of water.

The AZT was up on the sunlit hillside from earlier in the day.

Quiet forest riding.

Another cool sign along the way.

Daylight was fading. Could I make it without needing lights?? Only a few miles to go.

Massive staging area for the cut trees. This was roughly half of one pile. There were four other piles nearby.

Less than a mile later I began to see people camped out in the forest, signaling the end was near. I crossed US89A and made the short ride to my car without flipping on my light. I did discover my dynamo light wasn't working, so I need to figure out what the issue is there. 

It was 6:40p when I finished, a bit over 10 hours on the day. Plenty of time to relax, change and get over to the Jacob Lake Inn for dinner.

This was a really tough ride for me. I haven't done a big effort like this in a while and couple that with being on the singlespeed at elevation, man, I was whooped. I was also proud of myself for getting through it. 53 miles is a good day no matter what.

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