Grand Canyon: South Rim Loop

 Back in early July we had done a day trip to the Grand Canyon. Magical as always, but I was yearning for a return for a more intimate experience. Little did we know at the time, but a couple days after our visit, the Dragon Bravo fire ignited from a lightning strike. 145,000 acres later, the North Rim was altered forever. It's currently closed indefinitely. Reports are trickling in and plans are already being formed to hopefully return it to some semblance of former glory.

On a more personal note, the North Rim closure affects through travelers along the Arizona Trail. This means the upcoming AZT800 route would need an alternate ending. The fire also closed most of the inner gorge trails due to smoke settling, creating unhealthy air conditions. This past week saw that closure get lifted. The 800 needs to have some sort of Canyon portage on the route, so the plan was for the riders to carry their bikes down the S. Kaibab trail to the Tipoff. From there they will traverse west along the Tonto trail to the junction of Bright Angel trail at Havasupai Gardens. Then it's 4.5 miles up to the South Rim.

My plans to take part in the 800 have fallen by the wayside. This year has been setback after setback fitness wise and now I just don't have the time to get ready for such an undertaking. I did think it would be fun to go hike the route and Mike agreed. Neither of us had ever been on the Tonto trail. I had also planned to use this weekend as a final scouting mission for the 800 route. Maybe we could do a ride after the hike around the South Rim? We'll see how it goes.

I made the drive north on Thursday and crashed at Mike's place. He was driving up early on Friday and if I got going early, we'd start on each end of the hike and meet in the middle. Of course I didn't get going quite as early as I hoped and Mike was able to get on the road quickly. I had about an hour buffer, so I used that time to investigate a potential snag on one of my preferred routes back to Flagstaff. Would there be a gate or just a fence at a remote dirt road crossing?

Winner!! It's a gate!!

I arrived at the South Rim entrance station to hardly any traffic at 9a. I made my way over to the Backcountry Information Center, BIC, and 5 minutes later Mike sent a text that he was at the entrance station. Cool. We could do the entire hike together. 

Water situation looks good!!

We got settled in, then made the two shuttle exchange over to the S. Kaibab trailhead. We were prepared to get rained on too, forecast wasn't looking too favorable, but the cloud cover wasn't ominous.

All smiles at the top of the S. Kaibab trail.

Overcast start to the day.

Classic view of the upper switchback descent.

Trail levels out a bit here.

Ooh Aah Point, popular turnaround spot for a short canyon experience.

O'Neill Butte still a ways down.

Yeah, it's that kind of feeling being here. Mike nails it.

Next level rock work on these trails. Photo by Mike.

Sun islands appearing.

The amount of rock armoring on this trail is staggering.

Looking down at the Cedar Ridge rest area.

Cool looking blue bird.

Cedar Ridge rest area.

Closing in on O'Neill Butte.

Nice vantage point for the inner gorge. The Tonto trail can be seen snaking across the plateau and Plateau Point on more distinct trail in the distance.

This one fought to the bitter end.

A rare flattish section of trail.

Full zoom across to the burned out shell of the North Rim Lodge. Heartbreaking.

Getting there, in deep now.

We should apparently 'Seek Advice'. Nah. Not shown here is the Tonto trail which connects the dots from the Tip Off to Havasupai Gardens (Indian Garden CG on the map - that's the old name) Found this photo online, possibly from the NPS.

Skeleton Point offers the first view of the Colorado River, quite muddy now.

Simply spectacular around every corner.

This was a steeper section and when the accumulation of the repeated downhill force of the hike began to be noticeable.

Saw a bunch of good sized Millipedes out there.

The Tip Off coming into view!!

My right knee was starting to become unhappy along with my left Adductor muscle. I was glad we were just about done with the downhill portion. At least the steeper, pounding downhill bits.

Lower trails are scheduled to re-open on Oct. 31st.

Upcoming schedule for the inner gorge re-opening.

Newer shade structure and benches at the Tip Off. Quite a few hikers were staying here to avoid the heat, but Mike and I thought it was pleasant, maybe 85º?? You could tell who lives in the desert and who doesn't.

On to the Tonto West trail, new for both of us.

The Tonto trail mainly traverses across the plateau with short ups and downs. It's a nice change of pace compared to the relentless downhill along S. Kaibab trail.

The Tonto trail was noticeably narrower than the S. Kaibab trail, felt more like a backcountry trail. Photo by Mike.

We were up there, in the notch area.

Looking up and south, the canyon walls are generally darker, greener.

The canyon walls have a more reddish hue looking north.

Phantom Ranch and Bright Angel CG.

The popular Mather Point overlook is up there.

Contouring around a side canyon.

I was definitely feeling the discomfort in the short downhills. Ugh.

Crossing the marshy runoff from Burro Spring.

It's a jungle out there!!

Tall green trees signals more water.

Pipe Creek was flowing, enough to filter, if needed.

Pipe Creek marked the halfway point or so to Havasupai Gardens.

Collared Lizard sunning himself.

Natural bench makes for a quality snack break site.

Look around, there are caves and archways everywhere.

The detail on the canyon walls looks like abstract art.

Not sure what all the white stuff was near Plateau Point, but it made for a good landmark.

Construction equipment for the pipeline project come into view.

Nearing our junction with the Bright Angel trail.

We just have to get up there.

Thick canopy of trees at Havasupai Gardens.

Reminders of the inner gorge closures.

Tonto trail: Done.

Cool stonework.

Did not feel that warm.

But it sure was nice to take off the shoes for a quick soak in Garden Creek.

Garden Creek

Water ON, trails closed, only 3040' to hike up!!

It's quite the lush setting here.

The initial climb starts off gradually.

Need to get up there.

I assume this is part of the new water pipeline.

We figured this thing was flown in to the location.

Starting to gain some elevation.

The walls are closing in.

The pace was slowing down, legs starting to feel the effort.

3 Mile rest house nears. Snack break time!!

Heed the wise words here.

The higher you go, the cooler it gets.

Off the back of 3 Mile, some old structure remnants.

Glad I didn't need to use the restroom, no extra climbing or descending!!

Delicious energy ball, mostly oats, peanut butter & chocolate chips.

The shadows are growing long as golden hour approaches.

We made a pact with ourselves. No more than 2 or 3 waterbars on the same leg consecutively. Keeps you from favoring one side over the other and spreads out the workload. Photo by Mike.

Water spigot at the 1.5 mile rest house.

The day is growing long.

'Only' 1.5 miles to go. At our current pace, we knew the final bit would be in the dark.

Nice break in the clouds providing a dramatic sunset.

Finally. Mike is looking a bit tired!! Haha.

The final rock layer: Kaibab Limestone.

The first of two tunnels, getting close now.

The Canyon is THIS big. Photo by Mike.

Can we make it without needing lights??

A near full moon certainly helps.

It was fairly dark at the second tunnel. It is amazing how well your eyes adjust to the changing light.

Same photo as above, only this time using my phone's night sight mode. Looks like daylight!!

One final turn to go!!

Mike: That wasn't so hard.

Me: Speak for yourself!!

A quick shuttle ride back to our cars, change of shoes & clothes, then back to the Maswik Lodge for pizza and beer. Perfect.

Cheers to fantastic adventures. Photo by Mike.

Strava link.

This hike was amazing, but definitely not easy - at least for me. At 14.6 miles, 3700' gain and almost 9 hours out there, it was a full day. To think I thought we may want to do a bike ride afterwards was laughable. Nah. I'd love to do this one again, but with a bit more training under my belt.